Tlingit Clothing Designers Take Off on SHI Runway

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L to R:  Models Ursala Hudson, Miah Lager with designers Deanna Lampe and Lily Hope; Sealaska Heritage Institute’s 1st Annual Native Fashion Show — June 2016

Surprisingly, yet not surprisingly enough, my youngest sister Deanna Lampe and daughter Lily Hope created 3 ensembles for the 1st Annual Native Fashion Show sponsored by Sealaska Heritage Institute at the Walter Soboleff Center in downtown Juneau, Alaska last night.  Deanna has been a beadwork and needle-point designer and artist for nearly 30 years; Lily has been a Ravenstail and Chilkat weaver for the past 10 years.  Both decided they wanted to try their hand at clothing design.  Deanna and Lily were two of the nearly 15 clothing designers in this first-of-its-kind fashion show in Juneau.

Costume design and fashion has always been an interest of nearly all my life.  My earliest memory of “dress-up” was when I was 6 years old; if the sun was shining first thing in the morning, I’d slip on a pair of my mother’s high heels and put on one of her dresses and I’d stand in the middle of the street saluting the sun!  I learned to sew when I was 15, with the guidance from Harry K. Bremner, Sr.  I made my first Tlingit dance tunics.  I sewed all my own clothing and then eventually sewed most of the clothing for my young family.  I was costume designer for two theatre companies in Juneau:  Perseverance Theatre and Tricycle Theatre and then in Colorado for the Pagosa Pretenders Family Theatre.  When attending the Institute of American Indian Arts in Santa Fe, my work was selected for several fashion shows.  In the past 30 years I have also been a designer and maker of Tlingit ceremonial regalia, which in its own way, is also “fashion design” though none of us would admit to it!

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The back sides: My daughters Ursala Hudson, Lily Hope and their childhood friend, Miah Lager; Ursala wears a wolf fur collar above a black/white  geometric summer dress trimmed with Ravenstail warp tipped with cones; Lily wears a brilliant blue satin dress trimmed with mother-of-pearl buttons and a cedar bark obi; Miah wears a jeans jacket with 2 large, beaded daisies at each lapel and a beaded Chilkat face back center, with a red wool skirt trimmed at the bottom with M.O.P. buttons  — Sealaska Heritage Institute 1st Annual Native Fashion Show, Juneau, Alaska — June 2016

Due to health issues that required my immediate attention this past Spring, along with other major pressing deadlines, I had to bow out of this show.  I intended on having three contemporary ensembles and was almost done with them, but all is not lost; I shall complete them for my exhibit with Sho Sho Esquiro this coming mid-October at the Bill Reid Gallery in Vancouver!

 

 

Learning While Teaching Chilkat Side Braids

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Lily Hope demonstrates to her mother and sister Ursala Hudson, how to weave the “frosting on the cake” side braids of Clarissa Rizal’s latest Chilkat robe “Egyptian Thunderbird” — June 2016

This year, I was determined to learn while teaching side braids to my immediate family of women:  my 2 daughters and their Auntie.  We wove side braids on my latest Chilkat robe, on my daughter Lily’s Chilkat robe, and my sister’s Chilkat robe.  Boom; we gotterdun!

What are the side braids to a Chilkat robe?  On the right and left side of most Chilkat robes, there is a woven “netting” that houses the fringe that when a Chilkat robe is worn, lies in the very front.  In my experience, weaving the side braids is the funnest part of weaving a Chilkat robe and usually, outside of trimming the robe with fur around the neck, putting in the overlay fringe at the bottom, weaving the side braids is the last finishing touch of a woven robe.  And it’s the frosting on the cake, it’s the cream of the crop, it’s the best of the best, and it’s one of the last things we do to complete a Chilkat robe!

If you want to learn about side braids, check out Cheryl Samuel’s book on Chilkat weaving; there are some fine illustrations and instructions on what the side braids are and how to weave them.

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Ursala Hudson weaves the side braids of her sister Lily Hope’s Chilkat robe, while Lily tends to her young toddler daughter

My youngest daughter, Ursala learned how to weave the side braids about 3 years ago when I was finishing up my 8th woven robe, the “Diving Whale Lovebirds.”  When she was done, she was smiling and exclaimed:  “Mamma,…this was so much fun…can we just skip weaving a robe and just weave a sculpture that is made entirely of side braids!?!?   Haha!  I encourage weavers to learn how to weave Chilkat just so they can know the joy of weaving the side braids of a robe!

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Irene Jean Lampe, younger sister to Clarissa Rizal, learns to weave the side braids of her first Chilkat robe — June 2016

Lily and I got my sister Irene to finally learn how to weave the side braids; it took 4 hours of practice, practice and practice before she finally could do it without worry on her own.  Learning the side braids takes however long it takes for each individual to getterdun! — Yet once learned by heart, it’s the everlasting song of songs!

 

“Chilkat Blankets: Artistic Masterpieces”

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The catalogue for the “Chilkat Blankets: Artistic Masterpieces” exhibit of antique Chilkat robes held in private collections in the U.S. recently displayed at the Antique Native American Art Show & Sale at El Museo De Santa Fe this past August 2015

I have a limited 10 copies of these books available for sale at my booth during the Clan Conference held Wednesday, October 28th through Sunday, November 1st at Centennial Hall in Juneau, Alaska.  They are excellent study reference, especially since we will not see these robes in museums because they are in private collections.  They are $25/each

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I interpret this design as the  “Diving White Raven Amongst the Bullkelp” image woven in this antique Chilkat robe

 

The Northwest Coast Weavers Supply

 

The Northwest Coast Weavers Supply business card and sticker

The Northwest Coast Weavers Supply business card and sticker

The Northwest Coast Weavers Supply launched their website and business last Summer.  Owner Lily Hope provides Ravenstail and Chilkat weavers a venue to purchase their basic weaving supplies such as the weft and warp at this easy outlet, on line.  Occasionally, Lily will post a blog pertaining to weaving, running the business, the latest new shipment, etc.  For supplies for your next weaving project, place your order with Northwest Coast Weaving Supply at:   http://www.nwcoastweaverssupply.com   or call Lily directly and place your order:  907-957-8378

This was a family-affair to get this baby off the ground:   The easy-to-navigate website was created by Lily’s sister, Ursala Hudson at www.whiterabbitstudio.us and the logo of human hands (always depicted with 3 fingers and a thumb in Chilkat weaving) is also to hint at the viewer the fingers are like that of a spider (since spiders were the first weavers in the world), drawn by Lily’s mother, Clarissa Rizal.

Using Leftover Chilkat/Ravenstail Weft Yarns

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The Hope grandchildren, Bette, Louis, Mary and Eleanor  model hats made by  Grandma Rissy!

After 20+ years of weaving Chilkat and Ravenstail robes, I have accumulated left over weft yarns in shades of whites, blues, yellows and blacks, not quite enough for any significant weavings, so I decided to put these yarns to use.

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Grand-daughters Violet, Simone and Amelile–Chilkat hats made by Clarissa Rizal – Winter 2014-15

Nearly 40  years ago, instigated by the need for beautiful, ear-flap hats to keep the wind, rain/snow and cold out  for my own children,  I became a hat maker and there are a few folks out there who still have their winter hats that I made.  Those hats back then have my design trademark at the top of the hats:  the star or starfish, as shown in these photos.  Now that I have grandkids, I am back to making these hats…happily, I have come full circle…!

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Grandma Rissy has nicknames for all her grand-children: SikiKwaan, Ajuju, Wasichu, and Inipi — Chilkat hats by Clarissa Rizal – Winter 2014-15

 

3rd Year Attending Heard Museum Indian Art Fair & Market

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Sue and Israel Shotridge enjoy one another; Clarissa Rizal’s “Chilkat Child” won Best of Class at the Heard Museum Juried Art Show, Phoenix, AZ – March 2015

Doing art markets alone is not as much fun, however if you get along with other artists who may want to do the show alongside with you, like Sue and Israel Shotridge, it’s so much more fun!  We had a blast!  This was their first year at the market; this is my third year.  We were two of 600+ Native American artists featured at the Heard Museum Native Art Fair and Market usually held the first weekend in March; this was the Heard’s 57th year.  Sue and I were not quite a year old when they first started this fair!  There were also a few other Northwest Coast Native artists at the Fair, though not many of us:  Dolly Garza, Diane Douglas-Willard, and Zoe Urness.

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Shotridges and Rizal combine their “gallery space” in each of their 10′ x 10′ booths at the Heard Museum Indian Art Fair and Market, March 7 & 8 – Phoenix, AZ, 2015

To be a part of the fair, the application process starts each year in July.  To qualify, you must be at least 1/4 Native American with proof of your CIB (Certificate of Indian Blood), there’s a $25 application fee, the largest, 10’x10′ booths are $500, you must provide a resume’, and 10 images of your best work within the last 3 years.  It’s easy for myself because I have established a large body of work over the past 39 years, though for emerging artists, the application process may be intimidating; however, keep your faith in yourself, put your best foot forward, and if you have nothing major to show for yourself, then get on the ball and produce some work before the Heard Museum deadline for application!  Get it together, step up to your plate that’s waiting to “feed” you!  It’s up to you!

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Israel Shotridge drums and sings a clan song to an audience in his booth at the Heard Museum Native Art Fair & Market, Phoenix, AZ – March 2015

A select group of the booths at the Heard are 10′ x 10′.  The Shotridges and I took down the canvas wall that divided our booths; we wanted to be able to converse and especially have more light AND give buyers and opportunity to “step into our gallery.”  —-  These shows can be a lot of work.  It took three hours to set up my simple booth below.  It took three hours for the Shotridges to do the same.  Yet there is a simple pleasure in the accomplishment of making our space look inviting, and in our opinion, it really is like setting up a temporary outdoor “gallery.”

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Clarissa Rizal’s “little gallery” art booth at the Heard Museum Native Art Fair & Market, Phoenix, AZ – March 2015

Outside of winning ribbons and with the intent you will sell some work to help offset not only your costs but pay some of your bills for the next few months, one of the best parts (for me) about doing shows are the variety of people we meet from all walks of life and the invites to other shows and events, or invites to artist retreats or residencies, and not to mention the up-and-coming artists who look to you for guidance and advice.  Generally speaking, I think people like to be needed; it gives us another sense of self-worth!

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Recent glassblown pieces by Tlingit glassblower Preston Singletary at his annual art show held the same week as the Heard Art Market, at the Blue Rain Gallery in Scottsdale, AZ

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Jeremy Frey won Best of Show for his magnificent basket, Heard Museum Juried Art Show, March 2015

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Carver Israel Shotridge and Glassblower Preston Singletary

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Sue Shotridge takes a photo of the award-winning bentwood box carved by her husband, Israel Shotridge — Heard Museum Juried Art Show and Market – March 2015

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Clarissa Rizal and Sue Shotridge sport their cedar bark hats woven by Haida artist Merle Anderson – March 2015

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Beadwork close-up by beadwork artist Marcus Amerman – (I am partial to the Chilkat emblem in dead center!); Heard Museum Juried Art Show & Market, March 2015

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Marcus Amerman’s beaded “Smithsonian” piece at the Heard Museum Native Art Fair Juried Art Show, Phoenix, AZ – March 2015

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Adrian Wall’s sculptures in blown glass and stone at the Heard Museum Native Art Fair & Market, Phoenix, AZ – March 2015

Clarissa’s Winter Schedule: Art Markets, Presentations, Demos, Classes

Charcoal by Clarissa Rizal

Charcoal by Clarissa Rizal

Here’s my Winter Schedule for upcoming Art Markets, presentations, classes and demonstrations.  If you are in any of these locations, come by and visit; I’d love to see you!

1) One-day Chilkat/Ravenstail Weaving Class, Juneau, Alaska, Sunday November 23rd, 10am-4pm with potluck lunch — this class is for experienced weavers who have a project on their loom and need assistance, comraderie, support and a feast!  Class is limited to just 10.  The Northwest Coast Weavers’ Supply will have weaving/spinning items available for sale BEFORE the Public Market sales; so you will have the privilege to be the first to purchase your supplies for your next weaving project  —   Interested?  Give me a call at 970-903-8386 or email me at:  clarissa@www.clarissarizal.com

2)  Alaska-Juneau Public Market, Thanksgiving weekend Friday, Saturday, & Sunday, November 28-30th, Booth #P-15 in the main room of Centennial Hall on Willoughby Avenue in Juneau, Alaska – Click here to see the list of some of the items I will have available for sale

3)  Portland Art Museum, Portland, Oregon Presentation of “The Making of Resilience Chilkat Robe”, Friday, December 5th; I will also have Chilkat-related items available for sale AND I will have two woven ensembles on display only during this presentation

4)  Evergreen Longhouse, Olympia, WA,  — The Holiday Market is open Friday and Saturday, December 12 & 13; I will only be selling on Saturday! —  Click here to see a list of some of the items I will have for sale.

5)  “Raven’s Nest” Gallery (owned by Sue and Israel Shotridge), Vashon Island, WA — I will be demonstrating Chilkat weaving on a child-size robe; I will also have on display two child-size woven ensembles, “Little Watchman” a 4-piece Ravenstail outfit woven by my daughter Lily Hope, and my 6-pience ensemble  “Chilkat Child.”  I will also have items for sale as well; click list here to see list of some items.

6)  Chilkat Weaving Class, Corvallis, OR – December 15-19th; for experienced weavers with a project on their loom. — This class is currently full.

7)  Heard Museum Juried Indian Art Market & Fair, Phoenix, AZ – March 7-9, 2015

Visit Booth #P-15 Alaska-Juneau Public Market

Grand-daughter Amelie hugs the hand-dyed, merino weft yarns hanging out to dry

Grand-daughter Amelie hugs the golden yellow, hand-dyed, merino weft yarns hanging out to dry — and of course the weft was dry when this photo was shot!

I invite you to visit my Booth ‪#‎P‬-15 at Alaska-Juneau Public Market booth during Thanksgiving weekend at Centennial Hall in Juneau, Alaska!  The booth is right across the isle from Tony Tengs “Chilkat Cones” in the main hall of Centennial Hall.  And please note:  I will be sharing the booth with Tlingit carving artist & silversmith, Israel and Sue Shotridge (www.shotridgestudios.com).

The following is an inventory of items for sale; they include (but are not limited to):

A limited supply of Chilkat weaving and spinning supplies:  Cedar bark without the sap (both whole and split), Chilkat warp, Chilkat weft yarns in golden yellow, turquoise, black and cream, spinning pads, etc.

Books for sale that I wrote, made or co-illustrated include:  “Chilkat Pattern Templates”, the “Chilkat Weavers’ Handbook”; Juneauite author Hannah Lindoff children’s book “Mary’s Wild Winter Feast” — and books that I highly recommend:  “The Intenders” by Tony Burroughs and “Go Pro – Becoming A Network Marketing Professional” by Eric Worre.

Miscellaneous items include:  my button blanket greeting cards, hand-caste paper feathers, limited edition Giclee prints, hand-sewn, beaded, felt Russian Sailor hats,  and gumboot shell earrings made by daughter Lily and sister Dee Lampe.

Come check out my latest 5-piece Chilkat woven ensemble called “Chilkat Child” which will be on display next to my daughter Lily’s 4-piece Ravenstail woven ensemble “Little Watchman.”

We’ll see you in a few weeks during the weekend of Thanksgiving at the Public Market in Juneau (Friday, Saturday and Sunday)!

 

My Working Body Creates Body of Work

Chilkat/Ravenstail headdress, double-sided Ravenstail vest, and Chilkat/Ravenstail handbag woven by Clarissa Rizal – 1989

My very first Chilkat piece was a small ghost face pouch woven in a week in 1983.  A lousy weaver, I dare say that when I threw the thing against the window it just about cracked it!  Nope I never show that one to nobody!  Other than the one side of a pair of leggings that I wove with Jennie during our apprenticeship, and the Chilkat woven flap to a leather backpack, the three pieces above and the wall pouch below are my very first weavings before I wove my first Chilkat robe (Sea Grizzly 1999) and my first Ravenstail robe (Copper Woman’s robe woven in 1994).

“Father Cyril Bulashevich & St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church” Chilkat wall pocket woven by Clarissa Rizal – 1990 – private collection, Denver, Colorado

Though I have woven several small pieces not pictured here (or anywhere else for that matter), and I am a multi-tasker who has created other major pieces of art in a variety of mediums, the photos in this blog are all of my major weavings.  This blog post is to honor my children and grand-children to whom I leave my legacy and especially today to my youngest child whose birthday is today; she is the one who created this website, who created and encouraged me to blog, and who still continues to be a level-headed side-kick.

“Sea Grizzly” Chilkat robe woven by Clarissa Rizal – 1999 – private collection, Vancouver, B.C.

“The Diamonds Robe” woven by Clarissa Rizal – 1997 – private collection, Juneau, Alaska

“Hauberg Raven” Chilkat robe woven by Clarissa Rizal – 2001 – private collection – Seattle, WA

“Copper Woman” 5-piece Ravenstail and Chilkat ensemble woven by Clarissa Rizal – 2001 – Collection of Anchorage Museum of History and Art, Anchorage, Alaska

“Copper Man” 6-piece Ravenstail and Chilkat ensemble woven by Clarissa Rizal – 2006 – private collection, Mercer Island, WA

“Copper Child” 4-piece Ravenstail ensemble woven by Lily Hope and Clarissa Rizal – 2009 – Collection of Sealaska Heritage Institute
 

“Jennie Weaves An Apprentice” Chilkat robe woven by Clarissa Rizal – 2011 – Private Collection, Los Angeles, CA

7-foot Ravenstail border for a button robe – 2013 – private collection, Vashon Island, WA

“Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat robe woven by Clarissa Rizal – 2013 – private collection, New York, NY

Dancing of “Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat robe by Clarissa Rizal – 2013

Pattern Board of “Resilience” Chilkat/Ravenstail robe designed by Clarissa Rizal – in the process of being woven; completion by June 2014 – commissioned by Portland Art Museum

 

Chilkat/Ravenstail Doll

Chilkat/Ravenstail robe and Ravenstail leggings on the loom late at night – the leggings are not quite finished

My daughters and I collaborated on creating a Chilkat/Ravenstail/Buttonblanket 18″ doll.  I sewed the leather body and finished off the leggings and trimmed the fringe of the robe.   Lily Hope designed and wove the robe and began the leggings, Ursala Hudson designed, beaded and sewed the button blanket style tunic and the button blanket Russian-style Navy hat.  Lots of fun putting the doll together and bringing this little being to life!

Ravenstail Robe for an 18″ doll woven by Lily Hope

Ravenstail leggings woven by Lily Hope modeled on the 18″ leather doll made by Clarissa

Backside of the Chilkat/Ravenstail doll

Front of Chilkat/Ravenstail doll–oops, one strand of the beaded hat is obviously flipped up…!